The only way to St. John (without a sea plane) is by boat. As the murky harbor water gives way to the cinematic aquamarine of Pillsbury sound, a distant sparkling emerald begins to come into view - your next stop.

Okay, so Cruz Bay, the island's one and only town (what your guidebook calls "the epitome of West-Indian charm") exudes a whole lot of "Pirates of the Caribbean" kitsch. No worries. Duck into one of the bars scattered off the square and order up a strawberry-lime-kiwi daiquiri - with two umbrellas. Yes.