The enterprising 12-year-old awaits the ferry from Cozumel, jockeying for position with the other self-made porters on the dock. Jurry-rigged from two salvaged wagons, a trailer hitch and a haphazard collection of wheels, his wobbly pullcart will soon be piled high with the luggage of yet another visitor to his hometown beach.

Who will his customer be this time? Perhaps the archeology student, come to immerse herself in the ancient Maya culture that still breathes life into this stretch of Caribbean coast.